Alaska Ice Climbing in the Last Frontier
Location: Chugach National Forest, Talkeetna Mountains.
In Alaska the ice is plentiful and outside of a couple crags, it’s always fresh and unpicked. That’s what brought me to spending my winters here. It was Travis McAlpine who wowed me with photos of the ice while we sat snowed in at Kahiltna Basecamp in Denali National Park some years ago. It looked big and steep and wild. Now it is my favorite time of the year. Travis went on to become my mentor- and even my brother. His recent passing altered our view of our climbing season and we look back with gratitude, sadness, and happiness at the memories we made with him.
Alaska ice climbing is defined by long seasons and good conditions. In south-central Alaska, the temperatures are generally mild compared to other parts of the state and very manageable to get out daily and climb.
Temperatures between -15F and 40F
Daylight at shortest: 5.5 hours.
Daylight at longest: 11.5 hours.
Consistent snowfall, mostly dry, sometimes heavy wet.
Generally remote climbing and no traffic.
Kit Synopsis
My kit in the winter is streamlined for dealing with getting wet and still staying warm. For the most part, I favor synthetic insulation but when it is good weather I’m always happy to bring out down jackets. Stacking extra gloves in the pack, an extra headlamp and batteries, and most notably- a heavily insulated synthetic top and bottom for riding snow machines and four wheelers and stripping it off to a high-mobility kit for technical climbing is the key to my setup.
King’s Beard in WI6 conditions, Moose Pass Alaska. Photo by Sandro Gromen-Hayes.
Welcome to Knik M8 WI5, Knik River Alaska. Photo by Sandro Gromen-Hayes.
Clothing by Mountain Hardwear
Left to Right: Phantom Alpine Down Jacket. Ghost Whisperer UL.
Left to Right: Kor Strata Hooded Jacket. Dawnlight Gore-Tex Pro Jacket.
Left to Right: Wicked Tech Long Sleeve. Airmesh Long Sleeve.
Left to Right: Compressor Alpine Jacket. Compressor Alpine Pant.
Left to Right: Chockstone Alpine Pant. Merino long underwear. Briefs. Exposure/2 Gore-Tex Paclite Pant.
Base Layer: Men’s Wicked Tech Long Sleeve.
Base Layer: Men's AirMesh™ Long Sleeve Crew
Light Puffy: Men's Kor Strata Hooded Jacket.
Light Puffy: Men's Ghost Whisperer™ UL Hoody
Hardshell: Men’s Dawnlight Gore-Tex Pro Jacket.
Hardshell Pant: Men’s Exposure/2 Gore-Tex Paclite Pant.
Down Parka: Men's Phantom Alpine Jacket.
Synthetic Parka: Men’s Compressor Alpine Jacket.
Softshell Pant: Men's Chockstone™ Alpine Pant
Puffy Pant: Men’s Compressor Alpine Pant
Clothing Overview: For me it’s all about flexibility to change layering throughout the day. The Synthetic top and bottom Compressor Alpine set allows for traveling and belaying warm and protected. Underneath, a comfortable kit for technical climbing is ready at a moment’s notice. All of these pieces featured are best in class in my opinion and stand up to the rigors of Alaskan winters. Having synthetic equipment is clutch as it allows us to get wet without much worry- which happens often in Knik River Valley!! The sneaky piece in this line up is the Ghost Whisperer UL, at less than half a pound, and packing to the size of your fist- it’s nearly the size and weight of any other brand’s wind jacket. With 1000 FP down and it’s ultralight construction, having one of these tucked away in your backpack is a no-brainer.
Hands + Packs
Gloves: Approach Liner top left, Geko Ice top right, Geko Hot bottom left, Exposure/2 bottom right.
Dry Tooling Glove: Mountain Hardwear Rotor Gore-Tex Glove
Primary Climbing Glove: CAMP Geko Ice Glove
Secondary Climbing Glove: CAMP Geko Guide Glove
Warmer Gloves: Mountain Hardwear Unisex Exposure/2 Gore-Tex Glove
Warmer Gloves: CAMP Geko Hot Glove
Approach Glove: Mountain Hardwear Unisex Power Stretch® Stimulus™ Glove
Climbing Pack: Mountain Hardwear Peak Seeker 45L
Climbing Pack: Mountain Hardwear Peak Seeker 30L
Multi-Pitch Pack: CAMP Outback 5L
Head: OuterU FaceGlove, Heavy Beanie, Skullcap Beanie, Buff.
The gloves on the list have become standard kit for me. CAMP Geko gloves are best in class for insulated dextrous climbing gloves and paired with Mountain Hardwear’s longtime expertise in manufacturing gloves- the line up is complete. Mountain Hardwear’s Rotor glove is my glove of choice for hard pitches. I’m happy to compromise on insulation for the mega-dextrous Rotor glove. With it’s Gore-Tex construction, the glove can handle pitch after pitch with the hands remaining dry.
For backpacks, I’ve been using a 3 pack system. The Mountain Hardwear packs shown here will be out in the future and in my opinion represent a new gold standard for climbing backpacks. They are waterproof roll-top, and feature very few seams. The ultralight build still comes equipped with many features including removable straps that allow for building out carrying abilities or stripping it down to a streamlined construction. I think these are the best packs I’ve ever owned.
As a lead climbing and multi-pitch pack, I decided to try going as small and light as possible. I got a running pack from CAMP called the Outback 5. In this I can fit a Ghost Whisperer Jacket, spare gloves, repair kit, headlamp, InReach, beanie, and snacks. When I’m soloing, I put a 70m Beal tagline in this pack and still have room for several items. The pack has an extremely basic shoulder strap system that sits low profile and climbs great without restricting any movement- it moves with you not against you. 10/10.
Hardware by CAMP
Boots: SCARPA Phantom Tech
Crampons: CAMP Blade Runner
Crampons: CAMP Alpinist Tech
Ice Tool: CAMP X-Dream (ice picks & mixed picks)
Helmet: CAMP Storm
Harness: CAMP Alpine Flash
Belay Device: CAMP PIÙ 2.0
Locking Carabiner: CAMP Photon Lock
Locking Carabiner: CAMP Nitro Lock
Quickdraw 1: CAMP Dyon Carabiners, long draw.
Quickdraw 2: CAMP Photon Wire Carabiners, long draw.
Quickdraw 3: CAMP Photon Wire Carabiners, short draw.
Alpine Draws: CAMP Photon Wire w/ 60cm Dyneema Sling
Ice Screws: CAMP Rocket Screws 7cm, 9cm, 13cm, 16cm, 19cm, 22cm.
Crampon Bag: CAMP Crampon Carrying Case
Screw Case: High Man Gear Screw Cannon
Standard kit here for the most part. It’s hard to argue against any CAMP Ice products. Now with the ice screws in their lineup its a complete set up. The X-Dream is, IMO, unquestionably the best ice tool in the world and this season I got the Blade Runners which took my game to the next level. Excellent footwork is an easy ask with these on your foot. When Drytooling or climbing mixed, I love using the Alpinist Tech- totally boss!!
This season I began wearing the SCARPA Phantom Tech. I love these boots. Amazing comfort and a very techy feel. The H-Dry tech is fantastic and the boot stays dry even if you splash into an Alaskan creek once or twice throughout the day ;)
New to my kit is the High Mtn Gear Screw Cannon. This absolute hoss holds an array of screws with slots crafted for different lengths and offers a bag feature within the circle of them. I like to put pins, spare parts, some hardware, and even gloves in the cannon. When it’s empty, it finds it’s second use as a harness bag for keeping a warm jacket with you during the climb. Beautiful product. High quality manufacturing and lightweight.
Accessory Kit
Julbo Rush Sunglasses REACTIV 1-3 High Contrast
Mountain Hardwear Shade Lite Performance Hat
Garmin 66i inReach
Petzl Swift RL Headlamp w/ spare battery
(2) Petzl Bindi Headlamp
(2) 1 Liter Nalgenes w/ insulated sleeve (Not Pictured)
Spare crampon front bail
Stuff sack for bails and wrenches
Dermatone SPF sunscreen + Chapstick
Garmin Instinct Solar Watch (Not Pictured)
Dermatone SPF 30 Sunscreen Stick
Med Kit (not pictured)